(past christmastime at mediterranean wholesalers, or whenever really, you can pick a little cake from the display and sit yourself down at a table at the coffee bar. the pistachio bigne comes filled with a smooth custard of palest green, and encrusted with chopped nuts like so many barnacles. do not feel like you must order a hot chocolate to go with. it is made with cadbury’s powder, and even then, not nearly enough of it. if it’s still close enough after christmastime, they will sell you a generous slice of panettone for a dollar to go with whatever beverage you end up with.)